Guatemala

Having visited Guatemala frequently over two decades for development and microfinance projects, my recent journeys drew me into the remote northern Ixil Triangle and the breathtaking Cuchumatanes highlands. This region, though scarred by the violence of the 1980s Civil War, remains a bastion of indigenous Mayan identity.

Traversing the harsh, winding mountain roads to reach these isolated villages is a journey back in time. Here, traditional culture is not a relic but a daily practice; residents speak distinct dialects like Ixil, Quiché, and Mam, and wear the intricate, community-specific textiles for which the region is famous. While the people are naturally reserved, I found that once permission was granted, the act of taking a portrait often ended in shared smiles—a bridge across cultures.

The Unexpected Witness

My plans took an ironical turn when a nationwide indigenous protest left me stranded for three days in a western highland town. With all entry and exit prohibited, I found myself the sole foreigner in the midst of a historic movement. This forced detour became a rare photographic opportunity; I was able to document the wary, circumspect faces of men and women descending from the surrounding peaks to join the protests—capturing a raw, unscripted moment of civic pride and modern Mayan resilience.